What is the best time to walk the Le Puy route? The sweet spot is May to June and September: in Le Puy-en-Velay average highs range from 17 to 22°C (63 to 72°F), days last from 12 to almost 16 hours, and accommodation is open, usually from 1 April to 15 October according to the tourist office. May is the busiest month for departures from Le Puy, and winter is best avoided on the Margeride and Aubrac plateaus, where snow can fall.
The short answer: May, June and September
The Le Puy-en-Velay tourist office puts it simply: the ideal window runs from spring to autumn. Walking-holiday operator La Balaguère adds that most departures happen between April and October, and that May and September are walkers' favourite months, with ideal temperatures but plenty of company. It suggests April and June as good alternatives for a quieter trail.
Figures from the town of Le Puy back this up: departures peak in May, and Sunday is the busiest day to set off. On average, 35,000 to 40,000 walkers start from Le Puy every year.
What is the weather like on the GR65 month by month?
The nearest Météo-France station to the start is Le Puy-Loudes, at 833 m, a good benchmark for the first stages. Here are its 1991-2020 normals:
| Month | Avg. high | Avg. low | Rain | Frost nights |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| March | 10.6°C | -0.3°C | 34 mm | 16 |
| April | 13.4°C | 2.1°C | 59 mm | 9 |
| May | 17.4°C | 5.7°C | 74 mm | 1 to 2 |
| June | 21.7°C | 9.1°C | 74 mm | 0 |
| July | 24.4°C | 10.9°C | 71 mm | 0 |
| August | 24.4°C | 10.6°C | 61 mm | 0 |
| September | 19.7°C | 7.4°C | 69 mm | 0 to 1 |
| October | 15.0°C | 5.0°C | 67 mm | 4 |
| November | 9.2°C | 0.9°C | 65 mm | 12 |
| December to February | 5 to 6°C | -1.7 to -2.7°C | 29 to 41 mm | 19 to 22 |
Two takeaways. First, May and June are the wettest months (about 10 rainy days in May), so a waterproof jacket is never wasted. Second, these figures apply at 833 m. The trail then climbs to 960 m at Saugues, goes above 1,000 m on the Margeride and peaks at 1,369 m on the Aubrac, between Le Sauvage and Conques: the higher you go, the cooler it gets. By contrast, the floor of the Allier gorge at Monistrol (about 610 m) is much lower.
Season by season: weather, crowds, accommodation
| Season | Weather | Crowds | Accommodation | Highlights |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spring (April-June) | Cool in April, mild in May-June, frequent rain | High, peaking in May | Opens around 1 April, book for May | Meadows in flower, long days |
| Summer (July-August) | Hot afternoons, cool evenings at altitude | High | Open, often full | River, activities, chapels open |
| Autumn (September-October) | Mild in September, cooler and wetter in October | High in September, then easing | Usually until 15 October | Light, colours, quieter in October |
| Winter (November-March) | Frequent frost, possible snow on the plateaus | Very low | Mostly closed | Solitude, for experienced walkers only |
Spring: the classic season
April is still cool: Le Puy averages 9 frosty nights that month, and pilgrims report finding snow on the Aubrac in mid-April and even flurries in early May. May and June are the best compromise, with about 14 hours 50 minutes of daylight in mid-May and over 15 hours 30 minutes at the solstice. They are also the busiest weeks: in 2027 Ascension Day falls on Thursday 6 May and Whit Monday on 17 May, two French long weekends on top of the natural May peak. Book your gîtes several weeks ahead.
Summer: hot afternoons, cool evenings
In July and August, Le Puy averages around fifteen days a month above 25°C, and 3 to 4 days above 30°C. Nights stay cool (lows around 11°C). The rule is to start early, at first light, and to carry plenty of water. A bonus in Le Puy: from 15 July to 17 August, the cathedral adds a weekday mass at 6 pm, on top of the 7 am mass followed by the pilgrims' blessing.
Autumn: September, the other perfect month
September keeps highs close to 20°C in Le Puy and frost-free nights. October is cooler and damper, with shorter days (under 11 hours by mid-October). Watch the cut-off date: accommodation usually closes around 15 October, as does the welcome desk of the Amis de Saint-Jacques in Le Puy. After that, you need to phone ahead stage by stage.
Winter: possible, but only for seasoned walkers
The Le Puy tourist office is clear: winter is best avoided, because snow can fall at altitude. From December to February Le Puy sees close to 20 frosty nights a month, and La Balaguère gives average lows below 0°C from November to March at Aumont-Aubrac. The Aubrac is an open plateau with no shelter, where fog can cut visibility to a few dozen metres. Most gîtes are closed, and there are only 8 hours 45 minutes of daylight at the solstice. If you go anyway, call the next night's lodging every evening and plan a fallback along the road.
In winter, Le Puy cathedral holds the mass followed by the pilgrims' blessing at 7:30 am on weekdays only, and the cathedral shop closes in January. Check before you fix your start date.
Monistrol-d'Allier through the seasons
Monistrol, the second overnight stop for most pilgrims, lies at the bottom of the gorge, around 610 m: lower than Saint-Privat (880 m) and far lower than Saugues (960 m). It is often the mildest point of the Haute-Loire crossing, but the long climb to the Sainte-Madeleine chapel and the Margeride starts right at the edge of the village. The stage before it is covered in our guide to the Le Puy to Saint-Privat-d'Allier stage.
Several village services follow the seasons:
- Tonic Aventure (rafting, canyoning, climbing): 2026 season from 4 April to 18 October, daily 9 am to 6:30 pm.
- Plage du Vivier: lifeguarded swimming in the Allier from 8 July to 31 August, free.
- Sainte-Madeleine chapel, on the GR65: open daily in July and August; the rest of the year, on request for groups.
- Le Repos du Pèlerin: seasonal, from April to September according to its website.
Plenty to fill a break or a day in the Allier gorge between April and October. And all year round, L'Auberge des Amis, right on the GR65, stays open 7 days a week: walker's breakfast from 6:30 am, lunch, afternoon snacks and dinner until 10 pm. In midwinter, when many places have shut, the dining room and its fireplace are a welcome stop.
Month-by-month quick guide
- November to February: frequent frost, possible snow at altitude, most gîtes closed. Not recommended unless you are very experienced.
- March: still 16 frosty nights on average in Le Puy. Few places open before 1 April.
- April: the season opens, the trail is still quiet, cold and snow are possible on the Aubrac.
- May: peak month, mild but wet. Ascension and Whitsun long weekends: book ahead.
- June: warm days and the longest daylight of the year. A great alternative to May.
- July-August: hot afternoons, dawn starts, accommodation in high demand.
- September: the other ideal month, mild and frost-free, but popular.
- October: cooler and wetter, most accommodation closes around the 15th.
Tips for picking your dates
- Book early in high season: in May, summer and September, gîtes can fill up. If you can, avoid starting on a Sunday, the busiest day in Le Puy.
- Layer up, even in summer: mornings are cool at altitude and rain is frequent in spring. Our Le Puy route packing list helps you get the balance right.
- Start early in summer to walk in the cool and arrive before the hottest hours.
- Off-season, phone the day before: many places close between mid-October and April.
- Check the forecast before the Aubrac, especially in April and October.
Whatever the season, there is a table waiting in Monistrol: book your meal at L'Auberge des Amis, and take a breather before the climb to the Margeride.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best time to walk the Le Puy route?
May to June and September: mild temperatures, long days and open accommodation. May is also the busiest month for departures from Le Puy, according to the town. For a quieter walk, try April or June, accepting a risk of cold on the plateaus in April.
Can you walk the Le Puy route in winter?
It is possible, but the Le Puy tourist office advises against it because snow can fall at altitude. In Le Puy there are around 20 frosty nights a month from December to February, and the Aubrac tops out at about 1,369 m. Most gîtes are closed, so call each evening for the next night.
Is September a good month for the GR65?
Yes. Average highs in Le Puy are around 20°C, days are still over 12 hours long and accommodation usually stays open until mid-October. It is also a popular month, so book ahead.
Do I need to book accommodation on the Le Puy route?
In May, in summer and in September, yes: the Le Puy tourist office warns that accommodation can fill up very quickly. Off-season there is more room, but many places are closed, so you still need to phone ahead.
Can I eat in Monistrol-d'Allier out of season?
Yes. L'Auberge des Amis, on the GR65 in the heart of the village, is open 7 days a week all year round, from breakfast at 6:30 am to dinner until 10 pm. Some other places in the village are seasonal.
Photo credits — Monistrol-d'Allier © Krzysztof Golik, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons) · Gorges de l'Allier © Rémih, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons) · Saugues © Chatsam, CC BY-SA 3.0 (Wikimedia Commons) · GR65 trail Haute-Loire / Margeride © Rémih, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons) · GR65 trail Haute-Loire / Margeride © Rémih, CC BY-SA 4.0 (Wikimedia Commons)
